Entry 16: Field: Day 7: Sweaters in Summer

16th June 2011, Thursday

Sangau

I froze last night.

Did I ever mention that Lawngtlai was hot and humid? Well it was. But when I reached Sangau, it was cold, drizzling and windy. The wind howled the whole night. I crumpled under my twin blanket and listened to the wind and the mosquitoes circling my head. I’ve never felt more cold during summer.

I woke up this morning with the wind still howling outside my windows. I rushed out of the bedroom to a few neighbours coming over for morning tea. And it was only 5:30 in the morning. I rushed to get dressed and by 6:00 AM I was all ready and geared to meet another contact.

By 6:30 AM I was armed with a recorder, a pen and a paper at my uncle’s place on a little hillock. There was a slight drizzle still beating against the window and the winds haven’t died down yet. My contact/informant was an old man of 66 years old yet he still has clear memories and answered a lot of my questions about Mizo and Lai history and about the Lai language. My informant, clearly was a Lai patron.  We spend 6 whole hours discussing the Lai history, the etymology of the word 'Sangau' (a very interesting topic. Maybe I'll blog about it someday!) and the Lai language in general.  However, one sad thing happened, my recorder died before I could finish the interview. Note to self: Must always have batteries fully charged. Recorder, Camera and phone. Ever since I’ve reached Sangau, there has been no electricity. So I couldn’t charge any of my equipment.

My informant: Pu Hulha who promised me that he'll dig into his old files and  compositions by the next time I travel to meet him. I hope to be back at Sangau by December! :)

 I spend the morning with Pu Hulha and set out in the afternoon to watch a friendly football match between the Sangau Police Vs. Sangau VC members. It was hilarious to see old men with shorts running after a ball in a muddy field and kicking it in any direction they could. My Uncle was supposed to play too. But regardless of the number of times he ran alongside the field, he made it only for the goalkeeper. By the time the game ended, the Sangau VC had won 4-1.

The Sangau Police Team. My Uncle with the black shirt is all talk and hardly play! 

The Sangau 1 & 3 VC team. Oh Yes! I had the guts to ask both the teams to pose for me!

 After the match, I called up another contact that Mading gave me. This contact gave me a book that I know would be of good use. I took it at an old friend’s place for photocopying. But then again, No electricity, so I just left it there for him to make the copy when the electricity came.

And now as I sit here under my quilt, typing these lines in the light of an old kerosene lamp, my netbook battery reads “35% remaining”. The electricity better come tomorrow or I’ll have to leave town. I just got a random thought that my laundry is piling up and I need to wash my hair. It’s only 9:30 PM now, but it’s just too cold, wet and windy that I know I will get sick if I wash my hair now.

I miss Phabo tonight. Terribly. But my phone battery died by lunch hour today.

So I’ll listen to the wind against the trees out in the garden and somehow try to send a telepathic message.